Jazz, Lego Art, and Fine Dining: Sandy Keung's Unconventional Culinary Journey

W. Syaban

April 17, 2025

Hong Kong financier-turned-chef behind Table, which has just relocated, on why she can't and won't leave the restaurant business

Chef Sandy Keung doesn't deal well with approximations. When I inquire about her vision for the next five to ten years, she quickly interrupts me.

Six years," she remarks. "That's when the contract expires.

The lease under discussion is for an upscale location on the 23rd floor of the art-packed H Queen's building right in the middle of Central. This move marks the recent relocation of her 11-year-old eatery, Table, which previously resided in Sheung Wan.

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Similar to her cuisine, Keung defies easy categorization. Transitioning from finance into the food industry indicates that her methods tend to be unorthodox, and her passion for music led her to organize themed evenings where every meal comes with a musical selection.

Though Keung is known for her seafood dishes, along with her depuration technique (where seafood is placed in clean water to allow purging of impurities), she also serves lesser-known fare such as lamb heart and brain. "People call us and ask, 'What kind of food do you serve?'" she says, laughing. "Some say it feels very French because of my sauces. I've also got 'modern Chinese' before, which really surprised me. I'm not sure."

Table 2.0 introduces several new amenities such as a wine lounge, balconies offering panoramic city views, and dual wine cellars—one designed for everyday use and another reserved for exclusive vintages. Even though Table has become a favored destination for corporate dining and conferences, maintaining its cozy ambiance remained crucial to Keung.

Central to this is the Lego art In her free moments amidst the hustle of the restaurant, Keung crafts various items. Adorning one wall is a vibrant hot-pink heart, while miniature Lego wine bottles decorate the tabletops. Pulling open a drawer reveals an assortment of colorful Lego containers designed to serve as wine cork holders; “Children also enjoy fiddling with these,” she remarks. Bouquets meticulously assembled by Keung herself grace the space, showcasing elegant arrangements of calla lilies and cypress pines. Although pleased with the current ambiance, Keung notes that the interior design remains ongoing, indicated by bare spots awaiting either paintings or additional Lego creations.

"She mentions that it’s somewhat more challenging to achieve a cozy atmosphere with those four-meter-tall windows,” she explains. “Many of my frequent visitors who have been coming here remark that it feels much better now, yet they still sense that unmistakably genuine ‘Sandy’ ambiance.”

Straight out of hosting a jazz event with Ted Lo And Alan Kwan at Table, Keung is still excited about her themed menus from last month’s art fairs, which were developed in partnership with nearby galleries. Art Basel Once The Armory Show and Art Central conclude, the menus and exhibitions will continue through the end of this month.

We had a conversation with Keung where she discussed her innovative method for wine pairing, her career before becoming a chef, and the challenges of running one’s own enterprise.

How did you get started with cooking initially?

In college at New York, I struggled financially. Cooking became essential for me during those times. My father did not cover my educational expenses, which meant I needed to work part-time with barely any leftover funds. Often, my dinners consisted solely of plain white rice seasoned with ketchup and stir-fried corn – but that was perfectly fine.

My fascination with cuisine began when I moved to Hong Kong for work. After spending considerable time in New York and then returning here, I noticed that people tend to be noticeably larger than their counterparts in Hong Kong.

In the office restroom, there were numerous occasions when the secretary would say, "Avoid wearing sleeveless tops, Sandy. Your arms are chubby." As a result, I started cooking to shed pounds and improve my diet. Eventually, I wondered if I could enhance the flavor as well.

It was only years after moving to Vietnam that I truly developed my passion for cooking while working part-time at a French restaurant there.

What inspired you to become a chef?

When I began this adventure, I didn’t have a specific destination in mind. Much of it stemmed from ego, you could say. Think of it as putting on a performance; I desire for people to appreciate both my cooking and myself along the way. This quest is about seeking approval and everything that comes with it.

As time passed, I came to realize that I truly enjoy the process itself. Never before could I have been an integral part of people’s significant moments as I am now working as a chef. You become deeply woven into their celebrations. For me, this is what cooking is all about—my abilities enable me to foster human connections.

Take us through your latest menu idea.

We take on the fundamentals of classical Chinese medicine You should consume locally grown products as they help align your body with your surroundings. This involves focusing on what thrives abundantly during the current season when these foods possess their peak vitality.

What method do you use for pairing wines?

(American wine critic) James Suckling Once remarked to me, “Sandy, wine pairing is somewhat nonsense. Consume what brings you joy, dine on what pleases your palate. This is the ideal way to enjoy wine.” This philosophy guides me. Though I employ three sommeliers, I’ve instructed them that there isn’t just one perfect wine choice per dish. During our wine-pairing sessions, we offer flights with either three or five different wines, allowing guests to make their selections throughout the meal. We keep things relaxed; there’s no desire to create an atmosphere of stress.

What motivated the decision to relocate?

Much of this success belongs to my team, particularly the kitchen staff. They’ve stayed with me since day one, dedicating 11 precious years of their lives and careers to our journey together. Many could have left for larger hotel chains where they’d enjoy better perks and secure retirement options; those institutions offer stability and peace of mind. Yet here we are at a modest, independently owned eatery without such assurances.

Part of this involves growth; both personally and professionally, we must evolve. Stagnation isn’t an option because staying static could lead us to decline gradually or regress altogether. Right?

What strategies have you employed to cope with the decline in Hong Kong's food and beverage sector?

I think that even during the toughest periods, there’s always a method for handling specific situations and surviving... Not necessarily thriving, but making it through. While I don’t possess a secret recipe, I feel that operating a restaurant boils down to providing joy. After all, Hong Kong remains teeming with residents who continue their daily outings. It merely requires offering them an incentive.

What insights have you gained from operating your own restaurant for 11 years?

Never surrender. When asked, "How often can you fail before giving up?" my response would be that I simply won’t. There’s always room for improvement. The outcome might not align with your expectations, perhaps because the objective was misjudged. Despite sounding like a heartfelt endeavor, this is indeed a legitimate enterprise. My responsibilities include managing people's professional lives. Yet, it’s crucial to find joy in the journey itself.